Day 7. Conquering Yokomineji

15.07.2018

This was day I had been both waiting and dreading. Originally would also have been last day of this years pilgrimage but well things change(funnily enough fits buddhist idea rather well). Yokomineji lies over 700m high and to even get to start of the climb is like  8km walk from the onsen I was at. So I woke up before 4m and was on the move before sun was even up though it rose up soon enough. I was loaded up with drinks, too much in hindsight, but the good news about drink induced weight is that it sorts itself out!

Path toward foothill led through empty roads amidst small towns waking up steadily. Couple passerbys but generally I was on my own. Being so early I was feeling relatively cool. Though it was still only barely below 30...Never would I have imagined in my life considering high 20's as "cool"...

I kept good pace wanting to cover as far as I could manage before sun would warm the air up. It was predicted up to 35 as high temperatures...Wanted to be on the top of the mountain and preferably good way down before that.

Some shrine I think that I passed.

And another temple but with several temples and busy day ahead didn't feel like exploring further.

First good landmark from the map was this expressway cutting over road I would be walking.

Looks like yet another clear cloudless day ahead.

And this one was site packing up vending machines for coca cola company. Vending machines by the bucketloads.

First henro hut that I would come across today. Always grateful for chance to rest.

Going onward towns were well behind now.

Tiny Kukai statue.

SOMETHING way up the hill.

This road felt never ending.

In the middle of nowhere what on earth is coffee shop doing? Wonder how many customers this can have...

Well opens at 9 so like almost 3 hours later. Can't that far.

Road led me alongside this small river that was zig-zagging around.

Small statues even on stone walls.

First sighting of waterfall(even if artificial) this trip.

Locals are kind enough to have built this toilet at the footsteps of the climb.

Along with rest spot. Seems they provide even blankets for those who want to camp here and start climb next day!

Do you walk fast or slow, for what reason you walk or how many times you walk, rather than that walk  firmly and leave something behind.

Reaching up the foothill and taking a breather on the rest hut next to it I noticed bunch of cars there as well. Best guess some car using pilgrims had came early and were already going up. It was half seven. After legs felt good again I started the climb. It was...surprisingly easy. It was coolest I had yet to experience in japan this year . Bless early wakeup and tree shades. Sun was on the other side of the mountain as well as I was on the west side.

 Blurry picture :-/ But lots of path was like this.

After climbing quite long young fellow came down. Wow. Guess he was one of the car users. We greeted each other but he didn't feel like inclined to chat. I continued forward and soon pair of elder couple came down. People were up and early in force it seems! Men informed me I was halfway to the temple. That was both good and bad news. I thought I was closer but as it was around 7:30 I figured I could be at top 8:15 latest. We parted after a while and I continued my climb.

Wonder if these are damage from the start of month great rains?

Good base for feet to walk on...Not!

And then...yet another old man appeared coming down. This one chatted more than others so it took some time before I would continue the climb. He asked is the tube I had for air(umm no that would be overkill!) but hearing it was for water he found it interesting. Curiously i haven't seen others with it in Japan. I find it convenient especially on mountains. And cheaper way to have water than vending machines!

After lengthy chat we parted. One more stint! It was still cool so I was moving up fast. This was way easier than I thought it would be. Shosanji was harder and that was on a chilly spring day ideal for mountain climb.

Good thing I didn't have to go there. Wonder where that leads?

All these bridges and so on makes me think what this might have been before this mountain path was completed? Which was 1984. This is not THAT old path. Wonder what it was like before...In old days people literally seems to have died on this climb from accidents I presume. Now it's just tiring but nowhere near what I would call dangerous. Heart attack is biggest danger followed by poisonous snakes I would say.

Up, up and up we go.

More bridges built by friendly locals.

Stairs! More stairs! Even MORE stairs!

900 meters to the temple. Almost there!

That's a weird shaped rock.

Aaand shortly before temple there is this nice chair and table to rest on.

And finally I arrived to the temple #60 Yokomineji. First up I went to rest hut and ate a bit. And let my feet rest. After that rest I climbed to do my prayers. Alas didn't see the bell in time to bang it at the start. I love banging those. Alas other quests didn't bang either so no idea how it sounds.

The temple was started in 651 when En no Gyoja carved a statue of Zao Gongen(Shinto Kami) and founded this temple. Later Kobo Daishi came here for warding of bad luck when he was 42 years old(traditional back then) and carved a statue of Dainichi Nyorai that became the Honzon of this temple putting the Zao Gongen statue inside it.

Nio-mon gate guardians.

Rest hut of the temple.

The main hall.

The Daishi hall.

Originally this temple was affiliated temple of the holy mountain Mount Ishizuchi which is bit south of Yokomineji. Whole mountain used to be worshipped as Shinto Kami. By law it became independent temple in 1869 during Meiji restorations Shinto/Buddhism separation. One day I hope to climb that Ishizuchi mountain. At the height of 1982(my birthyear...) it's the tallest mountain in western Japan and one of the famous 100 mountains.

At the height of 709 meters for this temple it's considered one of the hardest temples where people even died in past and many quit the pilgrimage here it seems.

After this I went to get stamp and was so exhausted forgot to pay. Hopefully priest understood it was honest mistake.

There is story of a women who was half paralyzed in traffic accident to a point doctors had given up on hope of recovery. Encouraged by her friends she went on for pilgrimage supported by her friends to compensate for body that did not move normally. On the way to Yokomineji she clutched hard stone she had on her pocket in place of amulet praying earnestly. Suddenly loud noise was heard from bones of her neck and to everybody's surprise she found herself able to move again. What's more the stone reportedly had dissapeared.

Resting, using toilet and thought whether I should take the bus or walk. But feet were doing great so walk it was. At first along a car lane but eventually it went to mountain path and darn this was roughest section this year. I'm weak at descends and this kept going on and on. I had like 7km to walk going down, down and down. Some spots were rather rough so I was happy for my staff Kukai mk.2. Mk.1 is standing on my home retired having lost huge amount of it's length.

Road bit collapsed...

Distance to the next temple shrunk at annoyingly slow pace.

Pretty much every chair like this I used to rest my feet.

And more lovely chairs to rest.

Finally I started to emerge from the forest. Good in that it gave me these stunning views. Bad in that it meant sun was hitting me up straight...It got warm. Very warm again.

From the Yokomineji it was over 6km to oku-no-in of next temple which was pretty much on the route so didn't see point in skipping it.

Getting out of the mountain path into clearing at the foot hill there were 3 cyclists but I was too tired to do more than nod and greet and then sat on a chair with broken back. Drinking, resting and pressing ridiculous amount of sweat from hand towel I sat there during which another cyclist appeared and joined the trio(who seemed to be making light fun out of late arrival though in a joking style typical for friends). After I had composed myself went to talk with them properly. Turns out they were to do some offroad biking. After a while I left them to their fun and headed toward the oku-no-in.

Arriving there found it was nice little temple. Felt bad for not getting stamp. Probably not many visitors here so it's probably lonely work for the lady here. I donated extra money at the offer box at least. Doe't have spare stamp book for random temples though maybe should bring one.

Finding a toilet i used it and then not seeing better spot to rest just collapsed nearby. Not most clamorous spots but the asphalt descend was bad. Eventually rose, walked forward and...found a proper rest spot. Darn. Well quick rest. I wasn't in a hurry.

This chair could do with a replacement...

Down here to the Okuno-in.

And yet another graveyard the path crossed.

And shrine that seems to be pretty much abandoned.

But eventually arrived on the weirdest looking temple on japan(I think it's fair to say that) that is #61 Koonji(Incence garden temple) with Dainichi nyorai as honzon. The thing looks more like western city hall outside with consert hall sized hall housing both the honzon and the daishi hall.  Took me a while to figure out what was where and needed to ask for the daishi hall.

The openings visible are NOT Hondo or Daishi hall but some other places of worship. To get to main hall and Daishi hall you go to the right or left and use stairs to go to 2nd floor.

Looks like a concert hall/movie theater!

Daishi statue.

Getting stamp and info on 62(more on that soon) i then went lying down. Had over hour to kill. Didn't manage to fall asleep but got some nice rest. Location of honzon seemed to confuse other pilgrims as well. Eventually rose up and got into conversation with an old guy. Damn his dialect was strong. After this chat moved forward and into ice cream seller and got myself one. Cue in another long chat. And then toward second parking lot and I was on a crunch time regarding temple 62...

There's huge quarrel between 88 temple associaty and temple 62. It involves opening times(62 does 8-12 and 13-17 rather than usual 7-17), doubling of stamp fees at 62, 62 deciding not wanting to pay membership fees to association, association taking honzon etc and blockading 62 with all bus tours avoiding it(so vast majority of pilgrims) and walkers like me recommended not to go there. Instead there is alternave stamp office at the parking lot of 61.

Now originally I had planned to delay this temple from this year and have 61 hoping arqument would be resolved before my next trip but now that doesn't really work. I don't think either side is blameless on this one. Opening times suck but hardly reason to kick out. Not paying membership fee...ok that's better. But apart from not being blockaded what association offers to temple? This sort of pay or we blockade you smacks of old fashioned highway robbery...and taking honzons etc? Whose stuff that is?

And replacing 62 rather than changing to 87 smells more of ensuring money flow. What relation to Kukai new temple would have?

Doubling price for stamp sucks but in japan i have paid 200-500 yen before so it's not set in stone clearly. And when did doubling happen? Before or after blockade that cuts down huge amount of their income.

So basically we have two sides arquing over money...

I was considering get stamp from both, from one(but which?) A skipping entirely coming back when trouble sorts itself out.

However after mulling around I decided that the temple history, even as shaky as it it might be(remember many of the stories are more of legends than historical facts) was more important for me. Get the stamp from temple. And to ensure I wouldn't be hindered by opening times(temple is pretty much next door to lodging so early start would be hard) I decided to do that today after all. So to the temple. Short hop over. At least the "rebel" T62 staff werent out dragging pilgrims to their place.

Stopped at konbini for a lunch before the next temple.

Arriving to the temple #62 Hōjuji(The Temple of Wealth and Happiness) I found a small and simple one.

(following copied from shikokuhenrotrail.com)

The temple attributed to Kōbō Daishi who built it on the orders of Emperor Shōmu as a place to recite the sutras (Hōraku-sho) in Iyo Province. It was called IchinoMiya, the shrine of Iyo Province. 

Kōbō Daishi is also attributed with having carved the honzon.It was carved in the likeness of Shōmu's Empress, Kōmyō, when she was sick. Shōmu dedicated a sutra he had copied himself to the temple.

The temple was abandoned in the early Meiji Period and restored by a henro named Ryūhen in 1877. Frederick Starr notes that in front of the temple there is a Senju Kannon also carved by Kōbō Daishi.

Anyway I did my prayers and looked around and went to the temple officer where I found men and women who were very friendly. Certainly not appearing as any evil money greedy fellows. I seriously wonder how this thing really got started. We talked for a while and they even gave me map to my lodging which albeit is about least useful map I have got ever. Not because it's bad but the lodging is literally straight forward for like 200m and follow big plate to the left. Even for me impossible to miss! Still thanks for the spirit. Temple btw was surprisingly busy. One of the busiest temples. I wonder if the blockade is having much of effect except for bus tours.

Current main hall.

And the Daishi hall.

Anyway arrived to my lodging which was hosted by this very old frail looking old lady who was incredible sweet person. Though I wonder how is her hearing as she seemed to be having trouble hearing me. Got very friendly welcome there and found out there's another henro inbound! First in this trip I'll be staying with another henro..

I heard some cat noise so there's cat around. I love them but am allergic slightly so mixed news. First up I took bath and left clothes for laundry. Then basically fell asleep. Had been up early and it had been hard day. Around lunch time I was called and met the other henro who was young men who is definitely faster goer so tomorrow will likely be way ahead of me.

We spent dinner(tasty curry and fish) talking over various things. Unsurprisingly Finland and me dominated the conversation. I have noticed this effect before as well. After a while excused myself and left for a shopping. Need to find some skin cream that works and fast. Plus drinks. Alas on konbinii realized I had forgotten my wallet...well too hot for double trip so settled for just drinks from vending machine nearby. Coming back I started writing until it was too late to continue so fell asleep.

Walked 27,71km, total 117,51km.