Well with the lodging issues I knew this would be the last day of walking but I figured 2 temples as a minimum should be doable. Maybe third one depending on how feet would be holding up.
Morning prayer was actually differed from previous ones. I wonder why? This time there was no speech from the head priest and instead all 45 minutes or so they spent chanting. And unlike before no namu daishi henjo kongo and no heart suttra this time. We weren't even asked ever to put our hands together like previous tw otimes. This time apart from lady from yesterday there was family of father, 2 boys and girl. I was awestruct how effortlessly kids took up the traditional japanese sitting style and held it all the time(me I can't hold it for more than 10 seconds!). Though one of the boys that looked youngest had hard time staying awake :D Cute. Sister kept nugging him awake. Well it was early, words he likely didn't understand were chanted and the chanting intonation is a good one to inviting sleep.
To my slight surprise kids didn't go to dark tunnels. Aren't kids usually all in for trying these kind of stuff :D
After brief breakfast prepared and left toward the next temple. Would be about 3.6km and all on highway it looked. First stop around half way was konbini for some extra breakfast. Temple breakfest was GOOD taste wise. It just wasn't all that big. Dinner is much bigger.
Here's a slight rant. 本(book)/DVD. Whenever I see these kind of adds INVARIABLY they are adult book/DVD store. 10/10. I have never seen one that would sell you know STANDARD books/dvd's! Seems only one that sells used those is book off. No other chain sells used books/dvd's that aren't adult stuff.
I have lost count on times I enter store seeing if there might be something interesting for me only to realize I had once more entered adult store. Foreigner in pilgrim outfit probably not common sight on those stores :D
Fairly quickly reached temple #76 Konzōji(Golden storehouse temple) is said to be birthplace of Enchin(founder of Jimon Buddhism). Konzōji was originally called Dōzenji and was founded in 714by Wake-no-Michi-maro who was the grandfather of Enchin.The temple changed name in 928 by order of Emperor Daigo.
Enchin was also known as Chisō Daishi(Daishi being title granted by Emperor for particularly famous priests) was a nephew of Kōbō Daishi and the sixth patriarch of
Tendai Buddhism. He remodeled the temple after the
pattern of the Green Dragon Temple (Ch'ing-lungji) of Ch'ang-an after
his return from China.
At one time the temple owned 132 residential halls for monks but
extensive fires in the 16th century destroyed most of it and was rebuilt
on a smaller scale by the lord of Takamatsu castle
Temple had nice feeling.
Rested my feet, took care to do routine properly since this would be
almost the end. Had couple small talks. Surprisingly I'm meeting now
more walking pilgrims than before. Nice. Right at the end. Lol. Typical for my luck! ;-)
I think this is Suma-gaeshi-no-matsu (a pine tree under which the General Nogi's(who lived here) wife used to wait for him during military duties).
From
here to next temple was 3.8km or so. Again paved roads but at least
smaller side roads went past rice fields. Some nice tree shades on the route
as well.
About half way I stopped for a break at the post office who didn't mind me just sitting there. I spent some time talking with the staff. Without any other shaded rest pace the post
office ended up as only place I could rest without sun shining on me so I was grateful for the staff to let me rest there.
Approaching
the temple I heard voice behind me and sure enough osettai was on my
way. Old guy gave me a small statue of Jizo bosatsu, protector of children
and travellers. Luckily keyword is small one. Not too heavy or big to
be annoyance and indeed will be nice little memento from this trip. Maybe he deliberately chose this small one to ensure walking pilgrim(s) aren't too much troubled by the osettai? We
talked about this and that and I gave him a nameslip.
The Sanmon(gate) of temple #77 Dōryūji(The Temple of Arising Way?). Around 729-749 there were mulberry plantation nearby. According to temple legend Wake no Michitaka(ruler of this area. Incidentally last name is same kanji as Dōryū so presumably name comes from that) in 749 saw every night suspicious light in the mulnberry plantation so eventually fired an arrow there. Unfortunately his nurse was there so he ended up killing her...To repent for his mistake he carved statue of Yakushi Nyorai from one tree and set up temple building here which became this temple.
Later in 807 Kukai that had returned from China carved by request of one of Wake no Michitaka's sons carved a 90cm tall statue of Yakushi Nyorai and put up original statue inside it. This double statue is now the temple's Honzon. Son also undertook initiation to a priest becoming chief priest of this temple.
The son later expanded the temple by adding twenty-three structures, including a
Yakushi Shrine, Maitreya Shrine, hondō, belfry, and more. He
accomplished this by selling his own mulberry farm, jewelry, and other
treasures.
Chishō Daishi(Enchin, mentioned in previous temple) established the custom of giving annual Lotus Sutra
lectures here and carved statues of the Five Guardian Deities. For
several centuries, both Tendai and Shingon monks were sent here by
imperial order to study and it was designated an official place of
imperial worship. However, the Tenshō fire in the 16th century reduced
thee temple to one-tenth its original size.
On the
temple I ran into yet another walking pilgrim who has been doing it from
the start. In his 50's. Looks more like early 40s. Once again I was asked to appear in a selfie.I am popular photo target :D I also talked with another pair of
pilgrims over the Daishi hall and managed to make fool of myself by hitting my head on the
candle holder casing. Damn that being my height can be inconvenient in
japan! More talking with stamp office lady and some rest before finally
heading toward station. The walk for this year was officially this. I might have been able to make to next temple but about 8km
felt bit risky with my feet plus needed to still go to Tokushima. All in all I walked less than planned even after plans changed a bit which is bit
annoying but physically this was lot more exhaustive than last year due
to this infernal heat...
I didn't figure what might be fastest
way to go to Tokushima. Instead first I went to Takamatsu and left the station. There I spent
some time trying to find udon but damn it was hard. Not because there
weren't any stores but because they were full and some seemed like hard for me
with plenty of stuff around me(crowded, small tables, seemed like I would be causing trouble for everybody). Eventually found one with huge line
but at least place to put my stuff so I waited for my turn. Very effective store though so despite ridiculously long line took less than 10 minutes to get to
eat. Extra large meat udon. Tasty.
Rest of night spent just reading. Not sure what to do tomorrow. Not much probably.
Walked 10,59km, total 320,89km. (The End)
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