Day 3. Walking along coast line and small mountain excursion

11.7.2018

Had again fairly sleepless night but got some extra snap after getting backbag done. Breakfast was tasty and sea was calm. Other quests nowhere to be seen. Guess they prefer breakfest later. After eating I put in suncream and prepared to go.

Bit small which is typical for japan but tasty.

Today had just to walk to next lodging and plenty of time to kill so first stop was konbini for drinks and a lighter to light up those candles and incents. Then I headed forward once more. There would be a short climb over a mountain or longer route around coast. I went for the short climb. After a while I arrived to a Kama-Daishi(sickle Daishi) bangai spot that was good place to rest.

This is small temple with Kobo Daishi as a Honzon. Legend says in Heian period Kobo Daishi was circling around(so early 800's like 806 or 815 based on other similar tales) when he found out young boy who was cutting weed with sickle while crying. Asking why he was crying he explained her elder sister had died to a plague and younger brother was also on a verge of death and if this keeps up all(in their town) would die. Hearing this it is said Kobo Daishi took boys sickle and carved his own image and left telling them to pray to the statue. Doing this little brother and people in town all healed. After this the statue was put in temple building they built and worshipped after there and named "Sickle Daishi".

Then I went to mountain path. Here I ran into a slight trouble. First there was a path where was likely flood damage. Workers already fixing and they didn't seem to be worrying about me going forward so I figured there would be no trouble. 

But there was first small section with huge pile of sand. Or alternatively I could go over a path balancing over a drain. That felt unstable and there were shallow foot prints on the sand so I figured sand is safer. Big mistake. Either previous walker had different type of boots so didn't care or he was lighter but me, I sank. Reflexitively pulled left feet up and it actually slipped out of the shoe! So now I was standing in the sand with my socks with shoe almost submerged in the deeper sand...

Picked up the shoe and checked that there was no sand inside. Then hopped around to a clear path and pulled up spare socks out of backbag changing the dirtied one. Shoes, particularly left, were now quite muddy but that's only an only external issue.

Moving forward I walked and...hit into roadblock. Tree collapsed to the road. Can't pass it. No can do. Bit miffed that the workers hadn't warned me about it but maybe they didn't know. Either way this could lead to about 10km wasted walk to get back to almost starting point and then through the coast. Train calls again I think. 

Getting back worker called on me and I noted of the roadblock. He then taught me of side road not on the map they had used to come here with the car. Started well before road block so guess its possible they didn't know that roadblock. Either way I was saved of huge detour! Thanks!

Photo doesn't show it well but that's steep path.

Nice view with next town in sight.

Small rest place.

This got me to town safely. Found post office, sent couple books to a friend to keep for me. Proceeded to get THREE bottles of drinks as osettai in quick order so with ones I already had I was carrying now 2l water in backbag and 5 bottles of various drinks so almost 5l of drinks. Locals were determined to keep me hydrated! Good motivation to drink as well to ensure I dont carry 5kg of drinks for nothing.

Japanese cats are rather shy ones. Don't come close no matter how much I call them. That or I don't know how to call them in Japanese :)

Another bangai spot on the way.

Moving onward I reached "Pirate udon" named restaurant Ihad been eyeballing for lunch. Being greeted by owner I ordered meat udon. Little bit of small talk during which I noticed place looked oddly messy and she was clearly not concentrating on cooking but also cleaning etc. It dawned me this is only bit over  10am. Was this even open? Asking about it sure enough she said store opens at 11...whoops. I apologized but she said it was okay and for pilgrims she does meal any time.

But good meal, friendly owner. Can recommend this place.

Its hard to arrive to late checkin on these kind of days. Not that much distance to cover. I could start later walking but that would mean walking more when its hot. If I start early i get to walk in coolness but then I arrive early and things like this happens!

Nice views of sea heading north along coastline.

Stone carver's shop. Wonder how expensive one would be. And how pricey to ship to Finland...Stone not being known for being light!

Moving forward reached Kikuma town. Here was another bangai spot called Henjo-in. I had plenty of time so decided to do temple rituals here. I have more candles and incenses than I need anyway so why not.

Around 815 Kobo Daishi walking through Shikoku experienced spiritual experience going through peak here. He carved Kannon Bosatsu statue and set up temple here. This is said to be origins of this temple. He is also said to have carved his own statue and set it up to drive away disasters.

Temple's ridge-end tile's were designated as important cultural properties by Imabari town. They are now stored in another museum in the town.

Setsubun festival(end of winter holiday involving throwing beans at "daemons" to bring in good luck) at 3rd of february is particularly big here it seems.

I then proceeded to nearby konbini and took some time putting tapes on my right feet. Feels like blisters coming.

Moving on past factories i was greeted by one worker who was directing vehicles to and from factories(common feature in Japan to ensure safe exits for big vehicles I guess) . Friendly fellow and enjoyed the chat but  boy did he creepiest smile I have ever seen. Somehow his teeth appeared quite large and were weirdly visible. Not particularly dirty or anything like that but this combined with very gaunt face made his face look like a skull! 

 

We talked for a while and he noted it was 33 degrees. Didn't feel that hot though. After this I came on a  small detour that led me to the Aokijizo bangai spot. Though I didn't realize it was that. From map I thought it was further away and this was just henro rest place but seems it was both. Took some 20 minute nap there. Felt quite refreshed with it. Seems Kobo Daishi is said to have planted Japanese laurel here and dug up well with his staff here. Water is said to help with ailments from loins and downward.

On top there was big factory like building with short, maybe 20m long path between it and  the mountain bank. It was marked as no going through though. Such a short path that didn't look weird so was uncertain but then worked with scooter arrived that it is indeed closed and told me to circle the big building. Maybe landslide danger?

Another quote from bible. "God sees your heart".

Another feature common enough in rural Japan. These are found on road crossings for walkers so people can sign to cars with these that schoolkids are crossing the road.

Another shy cat!

"With good morning(greeting)  pass the baton of smiling face"

From there I walked to nearby train station, I was well ahead schedule bound to arrive 1.5h or so before checkin so had time to kill. What to do? 1 hour or so half sleep nap on the station! Thats what. Air conditioner, no traffic, inside building....good place to rest. Okay so there was old lady so at first I talked with her but eventually she got on her way to her train. We had some hard time talking though. She didn't seem to understand where I was coming so either she didn't understand my pronounciation or didn't know Finland. And generally had hard time grasping my words. Either my pronounciation was way off or maybe her hearing was bit poor? Looked to be in 80's so could be.

With nap over I continued for the final stint. Still arriving bit early but theres konbini and my lodging would be without meal so dinner there.

This one was tough one to capture in photo while resting.

Arrived to my lodging almost exactly at 4pm. Didn't intend to arrive this exactly. Less luxurious room and bath than last one and as said no meals but in return price is cheaper. Though my priorites with lodgings is generally location so price/quality I leave as a mystery. Not that map book really describes though. Many pilgrims write reviews but frankly I don't bother going through those and cross checking to those I might stay(many are in places I wouldn't stop anyway due to distances). Let's be surprised! Prices are generally max around 7500yen or so for night(many cheaper, some ridiculously so and without meal more so) so I don't go hunting for cheap ones either. I just take first one that has rooms around where I want to stop for the day. Sometimes not even much of options.

Walked almost 26km so more than i had intended but felt pretty good. More time helped. And those naps.

Distance walked: 25.86km. Total so far 47,32km