Day 2. And finally a real start

10.7.2018

So today I finally got a real start. On a sunny hot morning I went to bus terminal and boarded the bus that would take me to Matsuyama. Don't recall much of the ride as I spent it mostly sleeping. Did read a bit and woke up around the place that would have bekkaku temple 15 I should be visiting in sometime next week if things go as planned. Also nearby the mountain that has temple 66 that is the tallest mountain on this pilgrimage but didn't spot that. Too short time there and didn't pay attention plus was on wrong side of a bus.

 I did not know it yet but I would be seeing this river again later on my way to bekkaku 15.

Arriving to Matsuyama I donned up the pilgrim hat, grabbed the staff tighter and started walking north. Goal was temple 52 and first step was finding the henro path again. I had arrived well south of map I had and this area is not even close to the pilgrim path so no pilgrim marks either. Luckily I should get back to the route by walking the main road north and turn left. Problem was identifying that left turn but with use of google map and eyeballing pilgrim map for common points I eventually found right path as confirmed by first pilgrim arrow Isaw. Felt so relived seeing it.

 Blessed red arrow!

Path to 52 wasn't that memorable though going past some school made me smile. Didn't see much due to huge bush but on the other side sure sounded like sport lessons were going on based on the excited sounds of kids. That the kids have energy to run on this heat is amazing. I was boiling by just walking!

One path marked on the map was closed(whether due to normal road construction or due to recent floods I don't know) but not a major issue as I could just walk to end of road and turn left. No real distance lost. Arriving to the temple 52 Taisanji(Big mountain temple) though I found out it had suffered due to recent rains and main hall, which is considered national treasury and doesn't contain any nails whatsoever and apparantely built in a space of single night, was closed for now. Instead they had temporal prayer spot next to stamp office so I couldn't visit the building that has been blessed by patronage of Emperors since the Emperor Shomu(ruled 725-749)

 This temple is rather unusual in that it's attributed neither to Gyogi nor Kobo Daishi. Instead there's story about wealthy merchant Mano Kogoro from Kyushu(one of the 4 main islands of Japan west of Shikoku) who in 6th century was travelling to Osaka which ended in shipwreck. After being washed ashore he saw bright light on the mountain's peak and followed it finding statue of 11 faced Kannon Boddhisatva founding the temple in honour of Kannon for saving him. There's festival in his memory. One source claims 17th march, another 3rd sunday of april.

 Kobo Daishi from Daishi hall.

I met first pilgrims here with pair of old ladies. Presumably by car. Looked so frail I doubt they would be walking and too few for a bus tour. I got myself 2nd brocade osamefuda here as well as gold one. Getting brocade one on the first day seems to become a habit. We talked for a while and one lady noted how soaking wet I am. Well true enough. I was soaked already! Don't think I have ever been as wet as I was now.

Many temples have special fertility rites(getting many babies being important in old days) this temple unusually has rite of praying and leaving needless if you don't want anymore babies. That's a first one I have heard of similar! And curiously this HAS resulted in rite for those women who want babies who then come here and pick up those needless left by pilgrims who don't want more babies. And to take this step further some people believe that wearing underwear sewn with these needless will be particularly effective...

According to Frederik Starr there is 6 Kannon statues in the temple each granted by different Emperor and each classified as National treasury. Don't think I saw them. Maybe there's specific hall, maybe they aren't open for seeing just like that. Or they could be on the closed main hall.

 View leaving the gate of Taisanji. Path would be straight forward.

With today being in a bit of a hurry due to unexpectedly far lodging I hurried on toward the 53. At first it actually felt cooler and I was happy but getting closer to 53 it became scorching hot again.

Arriving to the temple Enmyōji(The temple of great illumination) and greeting couple school kids on the way found next to the gate of the temple a pilgrim begging(whether for real need or part of ascetic practice I don't know). Giving up some coins I had and having bit of a chat I proceeded to do temple routines but realized I had forgotten to buy lighter so no candles and incesses.

This temple was moved to the current location between 1615-1624.

Main hall. It hosts statue of Amida Nyorai which is said to have been carved by Gyogi who is credited as a founder. The temple was originally named by Prince Kakujin of the Omuro Ninnaji temple in Kyoto as Sugazan Shōchiin Emmyōji.

Apart from honzon there's 2 famous statues of Seishi Bosatsu and Kannon Bosatsu from Kamakura in the temple.

 Red Kobo Daishi!

At one time it had 7 shrines but was burned down in 16th century wars. Feudal lord Shigehisa Suga rebuilt the temple later.

This temple is another one where hidden christians during Tokugawa period worshipped Virgin Mary who was carved disguised as Mariya Kannon that is under some sort of christian related(cross shaped?) light(?) between main hall and daishi hall. However idiot me forgot to check notes and completely forgot this...

 Became famous in 1924 when Frederic Starr from Chicago university discovered old osamefuda's in the temple. These were dated from 350 years before(probably wooden ones. Would paper ones have survived?)

Presumably not the Mariya Kannon.

Daishi hall.

Took first major break here resting fo a while but with over 10 kilometers to go and time running short I pressed onward.

Rest of the day was non stop walking only stopping on vending machines and coupe times to talk with the people I ran into. Weather and "take care to drink enough" were common phrases I heard.

Interesting looking coffee shop.

Think that might have been one of the hotels I tried to get room to. Or restaurant.

 Not common but time to time in Japan I find signs of christianity like this placard sayin "Those who call for Jesus Christ are saved - Bible".


Approaching toward 2nd last train station before lodging I checked schedule and realized I need to get to next train if I want to use it and if not it would be dubious I make it in time to 5 for checkin(which is common "last time checkin" for many lodgings here. I had already walked 20km in a very short time in this heath and wouldnt have time to break so I decided to take the train for last 4km or so.

 First sight of lodging.

First stopped at konbini to get some supplies and then to lodging which was actually onsen. Yey. I only knew of name(which didn't mention onsen) and location so nice surprise. Had nice hot bath(and looooots of cold water for drinking), good meal, talked with people and was bombarded by messages from work which made me somewhat cranky as my body was not reacting well to walking in this heat which was more than a little worrying but I hoped in future walking more on relatively cooler mornings and in less hurry would help. Some notes were taken but with work little time for that either. Mostly I just lied in bed trying to get my poor body rested.

Next day should be bit longer than this but more time to spend so less of a hurry. No major temples either.

Distance walked: 21.46km

Dinner for this night. One could pick from selection and I went for Udon being big udon fan.

View of the outside from the restaurant.