Today would be similar day to yesterday. With even less temples. Only one as a matter of fact. So I was up early enough hoping to do good time on early morning with relative coolness. I proceeded at a nice pace and ignored first konbini as I had no need yet and just kept moving state road 11.
Eventually I joined with official henro
route or rather it joined with the route 11. Took a short trip through
residential areas and back to 11. It was already quite hot. I had with
me 3 bottles of drink which I drank one. I started to look for a vending
machine to replenish supply but didn't come across one. Walked onward,
took out a second and started drinking. Had drank half of it and was
again thirsty and by now I was getting slightly worried.
We were now
between towns basically with mountain on my left and nothing of note on
right. Are there any vending machines here? No shops on map anyway. Was
getting actually bit worried as at this rate I would be running out of
drinks soonish. Surely it's not vending machine-less road until bekkaku
temple 12? I asked one driver who had stopped about nearby vending machines but he wasn't aware of one. Gulp.
Was
REALLY worried but then i finally came across some sort of factory with
vending machine at the area and near enough road I figured it's not
trespassing going in(though at this point I would have taken the risk anyway). I could have kissed the feet of whoever had decided
to put that vending machine there.
Blessed vending machine!
Drowning a bottle and loading up and now carrying FOUR bottles just in case I continued onward.
Eventually
road 11 turned north and here I was supposed to take turn to right but
there was first trap turn. Only bit of google map eyeballing convinced
me this was not the right path despite henro markings. I also figured
following 11 doesn't lead me into wrong direction so less of mistake if I
follow 11 mistakenly. Bit forward from that though I found the correct
path toward east so left the road 11.
This
path led through small residential areas.
One of the most notable spots
was shortltly after when the road crossed through bigger than average
river. Some good hearted soul had set up amazing(and that word doesn't
even nearly cover it) resting spot for the pilgrims. It even had cold drinks(orange juice)
and it took all my willpower to not gulp down multiples. It was
TAAAASTY! Coupled with shade, place for bed, some sort of toilet(simple
one likely), chairs, tables, TELEVISION....what a pilgrim paradise.
This would be luxus location to stay for camping pilgrims. Left a thank
you note and name slip behind.
The
small path went through woods so was quite shaded and as such
temperature was reasonable but all good things comes to end and eventually I was
back at residual areas and then finally arrived to the destination.
Bekkaku temple 12 Enmeiji, Longetivy temple(identical name including kanjis to one of the
main 88 ones...).
This
temple had very good resting spot and clean and very decent toilet
outside it. Good place to rest as well. I spent some time there before
entering temple.
This temple is credited for Gyōgi Bosatsu
This is Izarimatsu. Izari means crawling on he ground etc. Matsu being pine tree. Because of this temple is also known as Temple of the Cripple's Pine. Also as Senmai-dōshi temple. Senmai being 1000 thin pieces(like paper) and senmai-dōshi refers to 1000 thin pieces of paper with name of Buddha written tied as an amulet.
Basically some people take these at home(should have got one!) and some are devouted enough they actually swallow these things with water. Supposedly good for your health. Before swallowing chant Goohōgō Mantra (above link claimed kōmyō mantra which goes in Japanese On abokya beiroshanō makabodara mani handoma jimbara harabaritaya un. Which seems to mean roughly Praise be to the flawless, all-pervasive illumination of the great mudra (or seal of the Buddha). Turn over to me the jewel, lotus and radiant light) three times.
This originates from temple legend where Kobo Daishi is said to have met crippled/disabled men here next to a tree Kobo Daishi is said to have planted before. Kobo Daishi is said to have given him slip of paper with secret word(maybe Buddha's name) and made him to swallow it with water. Men is said to have been healed.
Impressed by this the healed man asked Kukai to ordain him as a priest receiving name Hōnin. The temple has since become famous for shipping these Semmai-dōshi throughout Japan.
On temple I gonged the bell(my favourite part of temples!),
found the main hall and did my prayers there and then...where's the daishi
hall? Didn't find one. Went to stamp office to ask but nobody there.
Scratched my head and noticed candle spot, incense spot and...daishi
statue at the back. Could this be it?. Daishi hall was with temple office. So prayers
there and wondered what now? Nobody to sign my book. Well time to spend
so I sat down figuring he(or she) is on a break and comes soon. Had time anyway,
was going to rest anyway so why not here. Did feet massage, just rested
and...25 minutes later figured now something is off. Looked for a bell or something.
Nothing. Went outside hoping to see somebody to ask. Nothing. Looked
left and saw houses. Went there and saw sign "people with business press
this button". I figured I would at least get some information. As it turns out I
got the priest outside who also showed the actual button inside temple
stamp office that I was supposed to press that was off from where I had been
looking and info plate was for some reason flipped over to boot. Ah well.
Priest
took his time writing it so can't complain about rush job! Btw I always
enjoy watching the ink part being written so got value for my money.
These stamps aren't that big interest later but the process of writing
is nice to watch.
Main hall.
With the very long break over left my way towards the next goal. Lodging. Walking
through small residual areas I greeted a guy who greeted back. I was
then stopped by a call from the right. Old lady asked to stay and dissapeared
right away so I figured settai was incoming so took out a name slip and started to
prepare that when the guy I had just greeted came up with a bottle of tea
as an osettai. Tried to offer a name slip but he didn't want it and wished me
good luck and take care on this heat. Old lady came with glass of VERY
tasty juice and while I was drinking left again getting some snacks from the inside. She
accepted the name slip and we spent some time talking about this and
that before we parted.
Have I mentioned before how awesomely friendly the people here are? And how much they take care of us pilgrims?
From
here I had two options. Stay on these residential areas or break off
back to road 11 that is a) shorter route b) has plenty of konbinis. Also
hotter but...on this heat konbinis with their air conditioning,
toilets, food, chairs and all the drinks I could need won over so headed to the road 11 and indeed went to first konbini I saw for a lunch.
So
from here basically day can be summed up as. I walked highway
11(sometimes scarily narrow walker's area), stopped at virtually every konbini marked
on map and some that weren't on my way stopping for rest, drinks and
toilet: it was good 13 kilometers or so to the destination.
Whole
lot of conversations on the route as well with various people I encountered.
Especially at the konbinis. At one I won iced coffee can and not fan of
coffee in the first place and used for it in hot form I tried to offer
it to one guy who refused but we talked about this and that. Got good
laugh out of him by saying maybe rather than temple tour I'm doing
a konbini tour :D He has done this once by bike(not sure was it bike as in
motorbike or bike as in for cycling). After he left eventually what
looked like a highschool boy came and he accepted the coffee. Good. He was
happy to get it, I was happy to not have to carry it until I find
somebody to drink it instead. Win-win!
Eventually got
to the town and found my lodging. Ryokan but unusually for those no
meal. I asked if that's due to summer and she confirmed it. Well better
that than
closed. Plenty of food to buy nearby and only 4000 yen so good price.
Give me airconditioned room to sleep, laundry and bath and I'm happy.
Made
plans for rest of the trip and realized I might get it done by next
week sunday so in about 12 days. Albeit requires some tactical taxi, bus
or train usage to get rid of few 30km+ days.
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